1. Boost Cooler Benefits (Gasoline):
1. Low cost - where else can you get up to 60HP for as low as $304?
2. More Power - We don't create an intake restriction like an intercooler, and
unlike race gas, we reduce intake air temps and improve charge air density too!
3. Efficiency - leaner air fuel ratio can be utilized for normal operation.
4. Easy Installation - Snow Performance systems can be installed in a matter of
hours without having to remove bumpers or do custom intake piping.
5. Engine Health - Snow Performance systems effectively steam clean the valves,
valve seats, and even the piston tops and intake when they inject. This reduces
carbon build up.
2. Can the Boost Cooler be applied to
naturally aspirated and nitrous engines?
• Naturally aspirated/high compression engines:
Water/Methanol injection allows the use of pump fuel in all but the most
extreme situations which effects tremendous cost savings as well as horsepower
increases due to air density increase and higher timing advance potential.
• Engines using nitrous:
With nitrous, water/methanol injection allows the use of more timing advance
even with large (250HP+) quantities. The cooling effect of the water/methanol
inside the combustion chamber also makes for reduced peak combustion temperatures.
• Naturally aspirated/stock compression:
With naturally aspirated engines using less than 10:1 compression,
water/methanol is used often in warm climates to get the intake temps lower.
Benefits include: 10-15 HP increases from air density increases and full timing
as well as more effective air/fuel ratios, increased gas mileage, and carbon
free combustion chambers.
While power gains are typically less in stock compression naturally aspirated vehicles compared to high compression or forced induction engines, the benefits of water-methanol injection can still be realized due to more timing advance, leaner air/fuel ratios, cleaner engine components, lower temperatures, and the use of the methanol in the injection fluid as a secondary fuel source.
3. Does the Snow Performance system work on
a carbureted application?
• We have systems for carbureted vehicles without superchargers or
turbochargers. They inject according to vacuum and deliver 20-25 point octane
gains over regular pump gas when using a 50/50 mix of water/methanol.
• Any Snow Performance system can be used with or feature the special 4150 or
4500 style carb plates as well. MC and RT series systems include the carb
• Many muscle cars that previously required expensive high octane fuel now use
regular pump gas with our system while getting better performance. In fact, it
has been demonstrated in magazine articles that we can actually beat C16 race
gas in power. These cars can use our MC (naturally aspirated) and RT
(supercharged or turbocharged) series systems for a clean installation and
4. What power gains can I expect?
Boost Coolers® allow for more power in two ways on a
• Extra octane. This allows for much more aggressive tuning safely to make more
power. Timing can often be advanced 10 or more degrees in the power band. Boost
can often be increased 5 or more PSI. Air/fuel ratios of around 12.5:1 can be
utilized even in high boost applications.
• Better cooling of the intake air charge. We often cool intake air temperatures
50-150 degrees. This means denser air charge for more efficient power.
If these methods are used, a 20% increase in HP is possible. In naturally
aspirated applications, gains of 5-10% are possible.
5. Can the Snow Performance system improve
my fuel economy?
Yes. The MPG-MAX™ systems are designed to do just
that. Both the diesel and gasoline MPG-MAX™ systems are specifically designed
to inject a very small and precise amount of water/methanol under normal
driving conditions such as accelerating away from a stop light or driving up a
• The extra 20-25 points of octane provided allows for more spark timing
advance and a leaner air/fuel ratio with the use of a programmer. Both of these
factors not only improve power, their efficiency gains improve mileage as well.
Additionally, many modern cars will detect the combustion of the methanol and
reduce the injection of gasoline accordingly through the adjustment of
long-term fuel trim values in the vehicles computer. This can directly and positively
impact gasoline fuel economy. Gains of 5-15% are possible depending on how the
vehicle is tuned and driven.
6. What fluid can I use in my system?
• Boost Juice®: This is the best fluid to use and is
Snow Performance’s 49% methanol, 51% water mixture that can be shipped to your
door or picked up at a local dealer. (If you are using your washer reservoir as
the injection tank, Boost Juice® is a great washer fluid – works as a de-icer!)
• Windshield Washer fluid: Only if it is blue in color and rated for -20 deg F.
It should have no special additives. This means it is safe to use and made of
about 30% methanol, 70% water. If it is another color or another temperature
rating, do not use it.
• You can “spike” your Blue -20 Washer fluid to a 50% mixture by adding 3 12OZ
yellow bottles of Heet® gas-line-antifreeze to every gallon of washer fluid.
• Mix your own: You just need to make sure the methanol is “neat” and contains
no lubricants or other additives. We recommend a 50% mixture.
• Ethanol: It is not as good as methanol, but it can be used as a 2nd best
option if you can’t find methanol. It can also be mixed with water up to 50%.
• Do NOT use E85 or any other fluid with gasoline mixed in. It will destroy the
fluid delivery part of your Boost Cooler® and instantly void the warranty.
• Isopropyl/Denatured Alcohols: These can be used, but are not as good as
methanol. They have a lower BTU, or energy content, and a lower latent heat of
vaporization (fancy way of saying how much heat they absorb) as well as a lower
octane rating compared to methanol.
7. Why Methanol?
Methanol is a very high octane fuel that is extremely
resistant to detonation with an excellent cost/benefit ratio. Its high latent
heat of vaporization also makes it an excellent air charge cooler which means a
denser mixture and more horsepower. Because of these characteristics, it
suppresses detonation more effectively than ethanol or iso-propanol although
they will work in a pinch. It is toxic and should be handled with rubber gloves
in well ventilated areas only. Care should be taken to avoid skin contact.
8. Where can I purchase Methanol?
• Snow Performance sells 51/49 water/methanol mix as
Boost Juice™ (see products). If this is used exclusively, Snow Performance can
lifetime warranty a system so long as the free registration card is sent in
soon after purchase.
• Methanol can generally be purchased where racing fuels are sold. Also, most
gas line dryers like "Heet" are simply methanol. Suppliers of
industrial chemicals can also supply methanol for a very reasonable price.
Ensure that the methanol is "neat" and therefore has no additives or
lubricants added by the supplier.
• -20 degree F rated, blue windshield washer fluid is acceptable for use as
well, and is available at most service stations. Although some fluids rated to
under -20 degrees F contain glycol and other copolymers, most windshield washer
fluids are up to 40% methanol. Try to find one that displays "contains
methanol" on the label and is good to -20 degrees F, with no additives or
special ingredients and is blue in color.
• Methanol can be purchased on the web at www.worldwideracingfuels.com and www.hiperfuels.com.
• Additionally, many sprint car drivers and circle track and drag racers use
methanol as a primary fuel. They often have methanol on hand and will even sell
methanol that has been un-sealed for a long time at a very low price. Just be
sure that the methanol has NO additives or lubricants (such as top lube), as
they are not needed and can damage the pump.
9. What ratio of water/methanol is
• A 50/50 ratio is recommended. This has been
demonstrated to be the best for charge/air cooling, excellent detonation
control, and safety.
• Ratios of anywhere from 30% to 50% methanol work well and deliver excellent
octane gains and cooling.
10. Can I use pure methanol?
While all components of Snow Performance systems are
designed to be able to handle pure methanol, it is not recommended for a number
• Safety: Pure methanol is easy to ignite witha low 140F degree flash-point and
burns with an invisible flame.
• Performance: Water absorbs almost twice as much heat as methanol in the
intake and inside the combustion chamber. Water cannot be flash-ignited, so has
what is almost an infinite octane number. In the government studies for WWII
piston-powered aircraft, 50/50 water-methanol was found to be the best fluid to
use for auxiliary fluid injection.
11. Do I need an intercooler with
Up to approximately 30 psig of boost, water/methanol
injection (using 50% methanol) will provide all the density increase/detonation
control needed in most applications. Of course, intercooling and water/methanol
injection would provide even greater benefits, especially beyond 30 psig of
boost. Most air-to-air intercoolers are only 50-65% efficient. For example,
with 11 psi of boost and the resulting 120°f air charge temperature increase,
an intercooler reduces the air charge temperature only 60 degrees. Also, an
intercooler will reduce boost 2 - 4 psig. on average.
12. Why not use a windshield washer pump?
• Water/Methanol must be injected at above 50psig to
properly atomize. Lower than 50psig causes greatly reduced air charge cooling
as the result of larger droplets and their reduced total surface area. Also
with inadequate atomization, there is a greater propensity to quench combustion
resulting in a loss of power.
• Snow Performance systems also regularly inject into charge air passages at 40
psig or higher boost pressure, and a simple washer pump will not handle that
kind of stress. The pumps in Snow Performance kits are specifically built for
water/methanol injection in any environment that might arise.
13. How much range will a tank of
This depends on a number of variables. HP, injection
system, settings, driving style, etc.
• For most engines in the 200-500hp range, the standard 3qt tank will last
around a tank of gasoline.
• For higher HP levels with the MPG system, it will be more like 1 gallon per
tank full of gasoline. The #40016 2.5 Gallon reservoir could last two or even
three tanks of gasoline.
14. I dont have any room in the engine bay for
a reservoir, what are my options?
• Use the factory washer-fluid tank. A bulkhead fitting (PN# 40080) allows the
use of the factory washer fluid tank as a reservoir. 50/50 water/methanol makes
an excellent washer fluid. Kits for the 1.8T, 2.0T, WRX/STI, and others utilize
• Trunk mounted reservoir. The reservoir and pump can be mounted in the trunk.
2.5 gallon reservoir upgrades (PN# 40014) feature extra tubing and mounting
brackets for trunk mounting. We always recommend a #40060 solenoid for trunk
15. Where can I mount my reservoir and pump?
The pump needs to be within about 24” (hose length) of
the reservoir, and as low or lower than the base of the reservoir. It is a
“pusher” pump, not a “puller” pump.
• Engine bay: In the engine bay, the reservoir and pump can be placed almost
anywhere, as long as they are not very close to exhaust heat, or in the path of
debris from the road. Be sure that the pump is mounted at the same level or
below the reservoir and that the reservoir is not located higher than the
nozzle. If the reservoir must be located higher than the nozzle, a solenoid
upgrade (part number 40060) is required to prevent gravity feed.
• Trunk mounting: This is fine, but again, the pump needs to be close to the
reservoir and gravity fed. Lengths of 20-25 ft of tubing to the nozzle are
fine. We always recommend a #40060 solenoid for rear-reservoir mounting,
including use of the 2.5 gallon reservoir (part number 40014).
16. Is it better to inject the
water/methanol solution before or after the Turbo? Where is the best place for
a few specific vehicles?
There has been more discussion recently (especially on
the internet) advocating pre-turbo injection. Most of the debate centers around
increased atomization. You can probably get away with this in the short run if
you inject a small quantity of finely atomized fluid (less than 10micron
droplet) with a very low injection duty cycle. Also if you don’t care about
turbo longevity (like some race applications where the turbo is replaced
frequently) or you have a system that doesn’t atomize correctly and need the
turbulence to help (low injection pressure and nozzles that aren’t designed to
atomize correctly). In diesels, especially where injection quantities are large
in relation to fuel and where there is benefit to injecting at low/mid engine
load states on up, it becomes a question of when compressor wheel damage
becomes too severe as pre-turbo injection has been proven to cause compressor
wheel erosion. The amount of erosion depends on the quantity injected, the size
of the droplet injected, the speed of the compressor wheel, and the injection
duty cycle (what % of total engine operation is water-methanol injected). Also,
the argument of reduction in compressor work per unit flow and the increase in
mass flow rate doesn’t hold water in a properly sized modern non-wastegated
17. Where can I mount the nozzle?
Pre- or Post- throttle body/carburetor?
• Performance: It makes almost no difference. Before or after the throttle
plate(s) won’t change the effectiveness of the fluid. A given amount of fluid
will absorb a given amount of heat, whether it is done more before or after the
throttle plate really doesn’t matter.
• Installation: It is usually easier to inject pre-throttle body in the intake
tube. Easy access, no solenoid required (unless rear-mounting a reservoir). On
a carburetor, it can actually be easier to use the #40050 carb spacer plate and
a #40060 solenoid for a bolt-in installation. These components are included in
our RT and MC series systems.
• In a blow-through carburetor setup with an air-box enclosure around the
entire carburetor, injecting after the carburetor is preferable.
or Post- Supercharger/Turbocharger?
• Centrifugal/Turbo: (Procharger, Vortech, Paxton, Powerdyne, Rotrex, etc.)
Never mount an injector nozzle before a centrifugal supercharger or
turbocharger compressor. Sending fluid through the compressor wheel that spins
anywhere from 50,000rpm to 250,000rpm can erode the leading edges of the fine
aluminum. Studies performed by SAAB, concluded that pre-turbo injection will
over time cause cavitation on the turbo wheel leading edges.
• Positive Displacement Supercharger: Roots style (B&M, Eaton, Magnuson,
etc.) or twin screw (Lysholm, Kenne Bell, Whipple, etc.) Mounting the nozzle
before this style of blower is perfectly safe and actually provides some
additional benefits. The small amount of water-methanol fluid isn’t harmful to
any rotor seals or surfaces or coatings, and it helps to seal the clearances
and condense the air some more, resulting in a more efficient output.
Additionally, it keeps the rotors and housing MUCH cooler, which reduces heat
transfer to the rest of the intake and air charge.