Boost Cooler 2 NA working randomly

[mymopar]

Hoping to get some insight here. I have installed the Boost Cooler 2 NA application (20020 iirc) on a 2006 Dodge Charger.
I tested out the system and the pump works and the nozzle sprays. I then had an assistant rev up the engine to 3100 rpm, i then grounded out the purple wire for a few seconds and then removed the wire, taped off and secured out of the way.
I reinstalled the tubing to the injector nozzle, set the start point at about 7 and full at about 2.

So now I am out this morning. 2nd gear, holding around 2500 then go WOT, RPM's climb up past 3000 all the way to 6000, then shift into 3rd. The injection indicator would only come on then go off, maybe come on for a second or 2 go off, flick back on then go off again.
Now this entire time I am above 3000 and have anywhere from 1.8-4 for vac. I figured the light should stay on steady, but it is not. The IAT's dropped from 83 to 66 but climbed back up and never really dropped down much more. So I know it sprayed, but then I know it stopped spraying too. My question is why is this happening?

1. I ran the ground wire to the actually grounding lug on the car that has other grounds going to it. I also ran a separate ground to the control box to that ties into the ground for the LED indicator.

2. My only thought is that the vacuum is collapsing the tubing maybe? This is cutting off any reading to the control box and therefore isn't activating?

3. I'm going to increase the start point to about 9 and the full point at about 2. While cruising, I'm drawing an average of 22 for vac.

Not sure why the system is operating randomly like it is. I figured under WOT above 3000 the indicator will stay on. Last thing to try again is grab my helper, unplug the vac line to the control box, rev it up to 3300 and see if the light comes on and the pump operates. If it does then what? If it doesn't then what? I am grabbing the tach signal from the - coil wire on my coil pack #1.


As a note, I soldered nearly all my connections, checked all my grounds and taped off everything so nothing will ground out by accident.

[mymopar]

24 views and no insight?

The only thing right now that i can think of is the tach signal being inaccurate. I tapped off the #1 coil pack but when I put the multimeter on it, the voltage is pretty consistent. Obviously one pin is a positive signal which I confirmed and the other signal is the negative signal. I hooked up to the negative signal but it stays rather steady.
I'll have to research more to find out if the 2006 Dodge Charger has an accurate negative tach signal.

Any other ideas? Took it out again today and under WOT, vac down to 1.8 the system was not engaging at the higher RPM limit, it would engage I noticed below the set 3100 rpm mark and under lighter loads. I did readjust the start point to about 9 just to see if it would make any changes.

[mymopar]

Going to try a new tach signal source to see if that clears up the problem.

[mymopar]

Any one from Snow Performance have any sight on my issue? Bought a kit that is basically useless to me right now. I have soldered and unsoldered and resolder my tach connection 3 times using three different locations.

Most people say the injector wire is the best place to pick-up the tach signal. I don't know what else to do at this point. Any input? Any diagnostic programs or tools to run on the controller to see if it is functioning properly? I wish the box had status lights of some sort on it to confirm that it is working correctly.

[SnowTech.4]

Hello,

It sounds like the problem with the controller is that it is only seeing a signal 1 out of 8 times. The controller is designed to be used on Older Carb'd vehicles running a single coil. We are currently working on an adapt box for certian ignition systems however I do not believe it will help with a mulit Pack system like you are running. I will look into this and get back to you soon to let you know if there are any options for this controller on your vehicle. Otherwise we could look at other controller options such as a Stage 3 which injects based on Fuel Injector Pulse Width.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

Thanks.
_________________
Cooler, Lighter, Faster

[mymopar]

Well everything is making sense now. It seems odd though that this system would be recommended knowing that all new modern cars use COP systems.

In any case, I have worked on an idea and will use a tach signal generator to see if I can get the system to work.

I will say this though, I know of one guy running the Labonte Water/Meth system and he didn't have this issue. Hopefully a small investment in a tach signal generator will clear up my problem and have me spraying again in no time.

[mymopar]

[SnowTech.4]

This kit is designed for Naturally Aspirated, Carburated motors. Your best option would be to run a Stage 3 controller which injects based on Fuel Injector Pulse Width, this would work flawlessly with your vehicle. I will look into an option that may allow the controller to work on your car. I will get back to you soon.

Thanks.
_________________
Cooler, Lighter, Faster

[mymopar]

[mymopar]

Well looking back it has been a while since I bought this kit. Your latest reply is that the system is not the one for my car but I would like to point out:
"On Jun 25, 2010, at 5:46 PM, "Grant Brisk" <tech@snowperformance.net> wrote:

Hi John,



Yes a Stage 2 kit would work best for your motor. 50/50 water/methanol will
add 25 points of octane, plenty to stop knock on the high end. How much HP
is your motor producing? I need to know this to tell you flow rates.



Thanks,



Grant Brisk

Tech Department

719-633-3811 / 866-365-2762"

So I bought the kit based on Snow Performance recommendation, and have yet to be able to utilize it. This has been the biggest let down ever with my car and any mod I have done. I did not expect this type of poor customer service from Snow Performance. What can be done to rectify this?