1. What are the benefits of Water/Methanol
1. Greatly reduced EGTs - Decreases of 250 degrees F
are common using a 50/50 water/methanol mix. Increased EGTs are an engine
killer in today's performance diesel world.
2. Low cost power - Where else can you get 50-100 HP for as low as $549? What
other modification does all these things with one system?
3. Greatly increased air charge densities - 3-5 psi boost increases are common
with liquid intercooling.
4. Decreased emissions - increased combustion efficiency means less particulate
matter and NOX emissions.
5. Fuel economy increase - increase your fuel economy up to 10%-15% (1-3 mpg).
6. Great for towing - more power/cooler EGT's to haul the heaviest loads.
2. Why is Water/Methanol injection so effective
Unlike gasoline engines, the power in a turbo diesel
is largely a function of fuel. The problem with continually adding fuel is that
you create an over-fueling condition and reach a point where the exhaust gas
temperatures become prohibitive (over 1300 degrees F). A 50/50 water/methanol
mix will decrease EGT's approximately 200-300 degrees F while increasing power
Power is increased through:
• Air charge cooling - Water/methanol usually lowers air charge temps over 200
degrees F. Low air temps makes denser air charge which provides more molecules
of oxygen for combustion.
• Combustion conditioning - the methanol acts as a combustion catalyst as well
as a cooling agent. Water vaporization inside the combustion chamber increases
torque and power output through "the steam" effect.
Where else can you get this kind of power with cooler EGT's, reduced emissions,
and more fuel economy?
3. Is this technology new with Turbo Diesel?
Water-methanol injection for diesel engines has been used extensively for
years in high performance truck/tractor pullers. With the elevated boost levels
required for peak power, water/methanol is a common means of cooling the intake
charge and reducing exhaust gas temps. Also, truckers have used water injection
for years to increase fuel mileage.
4. What power gains can I expect?
In diesel applications, no additional tuning is needed
to maximize the water-methanol injection benefits.
• A cooler, denser air charge is now delivered to the combustion chamber – this
allows more diesel fuel to be burned than before.
• The methanol in the injection fluid burns as a fuel. This directly impacts
• The water vaporizes in the combustion chamber, creating rapidly expanding
steam which pushes down on the piston to create additional torque.
The extra power produced depends heavily on the concentration of methanol used
and the volume injected. Typical power gains in 5.9L and larger applications
with a 50% mixture of water/methanol are 50-100 WHP and a 100-150ft lb-ft
increase in torque.
5. Can the Snow Performance system improve
my fuel economy?
Yes. The MPG-MAX™ systems are designed to do just
that. Both the diesel and gasoline MPG-MAX™ systems are specifically designed
to inject a very small and precise amount of water/methanol under normal
driving conditions such as accelerating away from a stop light or driving up a
• Diesel MPG-MAX systems benefit from the methanol directly due to the fact
that it combusts as a fuel, allowing for brake specific fuel consumption (BSFC)
to be reduced. Typical gains are 10-15% better fuel economy or 1-3 MPG. In some
cases and in independent testing, gains of up to 30% have been observed in
6. What fluid can I use in my system?
• Boost Juice®: This is the best fluid to use and is
Snow Performance’s 49% methanol, 51% water mixture that can be shipped to your
door or picked up at a local dealer. (If you are using your washer reservoir as
the injection tank, Boost Juice® is a great washer fluid – works as a de-icer!)
• Windshield Washer fluid: Only if it is blue in color and rated for -20 deg F.
This means it is safe to use and made of about 30% methanol, 70% water. If it
is another color or another temperature rating, do not use it. It should NOT
have any extra additives or features.
• You can “spike” your Blue -20 Washer fluid to a 50% mixture by adding 3 12OZ
yellow bottles of Heet® gas-line-antifreeze to every gallon of washer fluid.
• Mix your own: You just need to make sure the methanol is “neat” and contains
no lubricants or other additives. We recommend a 50% mixture.
• Ethanol: It is not as good as methanol, but it can be used as a 2nd best
option if you can’t find methanol. It can also be mixed with water up to 50%.
• Do NOT use E85 or any other fluid with gasoline mixed in. It will destroy the
fluid delivery part of your Boost Cooler® and instantly void the warranty.
• Isopropyl/Denatured Alcohols: These can be used, but are not as good as
methanol. They have a lower BTU, or energy content, and a lower latent heat of
vaporization (fancy way of saying how much heat they absorb) as well as a lower
octane rating compared to methanol.
7. Why Methanol?
Methanol is an extremely clean fuel with an excellent
cost/benefit ratio. Its high latent heat of vaporization also makes it an
excellent air charge cooler which means a denser mixture and more horsepower.
Because of these characteristics, it is a better fuel than ethanol although it
will work in a pinch. Isopropanol has different combustion characteristics and
should not be used. Methanol is extremely toxic and should be handled with rubber
gloves in well ventilated areas only. Care should be taken to avoid skin
8. Is Methanol Safe for my Diesel?
Methanol makes an excellent adjunct fuel. Because it
has a cetane number of 4CN, it makes safe power without spiking cylinder
"combustion of neat methanol alone results in a cetane number of 4CN with
reduced PM (smoke) and NOx. " see SAE Technical Paper #940326
"Combustion and Emissions Characteristics of Minimally Processed Methanol
in a Diesel Engine"
9. Where can I purchase methanol?
• Snow Performance sells a 51/49 water/methanol mix as
Boost Juice™ (see products). If this is used exclusively, Snow Performance can
lifetime warranty a system so long as the free registration card is sent in
soon after purchase.
• Methanol can generally be purchased where racing fuels are sold. Also, most
gas line dryers like "Heet" are simply methanol. Suppliers of
industrial chemicals can also supply methanol for a very reasonable price.
• -20 degree F rated, blue windsheild washer fluid is acceptable for use as
well, and is availble at most service stations. Although some fluids rated to
under -20 degrees F contain glycol and other copolymers, most windshield washer
fluids are up to 40% methanol. Try to find one that displays "contains
methanol" on the label and is good to -20 degrees F, with no additives or
special ingredients and is blue in color.
• Methanol can be purchased on the web at www.worldwideracingfuels.com and www.hiperfuels.com.
• Additionally, many sprint car drivers and circle track and drag racers use
methanol as a primary fuel. They often have methanol on hand and will even sell
methanol that has been un-sealed for a long time at a very low price. Just be
sure that the methanol has NO additives or lubricants (such as top lube), as
they are not needed and can damage the pump.
10. Can I use pure methanol?
While all components of Snow Performance systems are
designed to be able to handle pure methanol, it is not recommended for a number
• Safety: Pure methanol is easy to ignite with a low 140F degree flash-point
and burns with an invisible flame.
• Performance: Water absorbs more much heat than methanol in the intake and
inside the combustion chamber. However, water cannot be flash-ignited, so
volume-for-volume, it is more prone to cause combustion quench. SAE studies on
the effect of methanol as a fuel in diesel reveals a cetane of 4CN (increased
ignition delay) as well as increased area under the Torque curve during the
power stroke (as piston is going down after TDC) resulting in safe power (not
from greatly increased cylinder pressure).
11. How much range will a tank of
Diesels use more fluid than a gasoline application,
and are in heavier load states more often.
• On a Stage 1 or 2 system, the factory washer fluid tank on a pickup truck
(usually 1-1.5 gallons) will last a tank of fuel. This is for normal mixed
driving with no towing and some aggressive acceleration.
• On a Stage 3 MPG MAX™ used for towing, the 7 gallon reservoir (included with
the MPG MAX™) usually lasts 1-2 tanks of diesel fuel. In an un-loaded state,
the 7 gallon reservoir will provide about 1000 miles of range. When towing, the
7 gallon usually lasts about 500 miles.
• A standard Stage 3 system will use about 1 gallon of liquid for every 75
miles of towing. Many Stage 3 users take advantage of their stock washer tank
or the special universal fitting included in Stage 3 Snow Performance diesel
kits with a custom large capacity tank. Be sure to use a solenoid upgrade for
any reservoir mounted in the rear of the vehicle.
12. Where can I mount my reservoir and pump?
The pump needs to be within about 24” (hose length) of
the reservoir, and as low or lower than the base of the reservoir. It is a
“pusher” pump, not a “puller” pump.
• Engine bay: In the engine bay, the reservoir and pump can be placed almost
anywhere, as long as they are not very close to exhaust heat, or in the path of
debris from the road. Just be sure that the pump is at the same level or below
the reservoir, and that the reservoir is not located higher than the nozzle. If
the reservoir has to be higher than the nozzle, a solenoid upgrade (part number
40060) is needed to prevent gravity-feed.
• Trunk/Bed mounting: This is fine, but again, the pump needs to be close to
the reservoir and gravity fed. Lengths of 20-25 ft of tubing to the nozzle are
fine. We always recommend a #40060 solenoid for rear-reservoir mounting. A
solenoid is included with the #40016 7 gallon reservoir.
13. I dont have any room in the engine bay
for a reservoir, what are my options?
• Use the factory washer-fluid tank. A bulkhead
fitting (PN# 40080) allows the use of the factory washer fluid tank as a
reservoir. 50/50 water/methanol makes an excellent washer fluid. Stage one and
two kits often utilize this strategy.
• Bed mounted reservoir. The reservoir and pump can be mounted in the back of
the vehicle. 7 gallon reservoir upgrades (PN# 40016) feature extra tubing, a
solenoid upgrade, and mounting brackets for bed mounting. We always recommend a
#40060 solenoid for rear mounting with any reservoir/vehicle.
14. Where can I mount the nozzle?
• The best placement of the nozzles is in the area
around the inlet to the intake manifold or virtually anywhere on the pipe
leading from the intercooler to the intake manifold. The nozzles can be placed
at any position on the tube, so long as they are pointing at a 90 degree angle
to the direction of airflow. The nozzles can be placed in a series or right
next to each other. There is enough heat and velocity and flow through the pipe
under boost to absorb the water/methanol regardless of the nozzle positions
relative to each other.
• Some intakes are pre-drilled for Snow Performance nozzles. As long as all of
the airflow into the engine will pass by all nozzles used in the system, even
distribution and cooling will result.
• Placement before the intercooler or turbo(s) is not recommended. Cooling is
not improved. Never mount an injector nozzle before a turbocharger compressor.
Sending fluid through the compressor wheel that spins anywhere from 50,000rpm
to 250,000rpm can erode the leading edges of the fine aluminum. Studies
performed by SAAB, concluded that pre-turbo injection will over time cause cavitation
on the turbo wheel leading edges.
15. Is it better to inject the
water/methanol solution before or after the Turbo? Where is the best place for
a few specific trucks? (Duramax, 7.3L Power Stroke, 5.9L common rail).
There has been more discussion recently
(especially on the internet) advocating pre-turbo injection. Most of the debate
centers around increased atomization. You can probably get away with this in
the short run if you inject a small quantity of finely atomized fluid (less
than 10micron droplet) with a very low injection duty cycle. Also if you don’t
care about turbo longevity (like some competition diesels where the turbo is
replaced frequently) or you have a system that doesn’t atomize correctly and
need the turbulence to help (low injection pressure and nozzles that aren’t
designed to atomize correctly). In diesels, especially where injection
quantities are large in relation to fuel and where there is benefit to
injecting at low/mid engine load states on up, it becomes a question of when
compressor wheel damage becomes too severe as pre-turbo injection has been
proven to cause compressor wheel erosion. The amount of erosion depends on the
quantity injected, the size of the droplet injected, the speed of the
compressor wheel, and the injection duty cycle (what % of total engine
operation is water-methanol injected). Also, the argument of reduction in
compressor work per unit flow and the increase in mass flow rate doesn’t hold
water in a properly sized modern non-wastegated turbo.